Kochi is nothing without its most crowded place of shopping, ‘Broadway’. Located in the centre of the energetic city of Ernakulam, Broadway is a symbol of the diverse cultural fabric that characterises the area.
Although the name Broadway may conjure up visions of the famous theatre district in New York City, Ernakulam’s Broadway has a history that is just as fascinating and firmly ingrained in the local way of life. In this exploration, we explore the fascinating history of Broadway, Ernakulam, following its development from a busy marketplace to a cultural centre that still beats with the city’s heart.
The Birth of Broadway
Situated in the central hub of Kochi, directly across from Marine Drive and a mere kilometre from the Kerala High Court, Broadway and the Ernakulam market, with a legacy spanning more than a century, persists as the most bustling locales in the city. Broadway traces its origins back to the colonial era when the city was a bustling trade centre under Portuguese, Dutch, and British rule.
In the early 20th century, Ernakulam’s Broadway was its only retail street. When it first opened, Mattancherry was home to the retail district. The market, which had everything from a safety pin to clothes and hardware on offer, moved from Mattancherry to Kochi when the British took over Cochin from the Dutch.
During this period, the area served as a commercial hub, witnessing the convergence of merchants, traders, and diverse communities. Initially known as Esplanade, the market square began to take shape in the late 19th century, becoming a central point for economic activities.
Kochi has developed into a vast metropolis that is slowly growing in the suburbs. But as long-time merchants remember, decades ago, Broadway and the nearby market were the only successful businesses in this neighbourhood. Many opine that the market was probably founded under the Cochin Dynasty’s control more than a century ago.
An emotional connect
For many people, broadway is an emotion. The majority of Kochi don’t need a particular reason to visit Broadway. That’s how it has evolved into. There is nothing we can’t find there. Everything needed for life is there in that nook and corner.
People from different classes, communities, etc, wander in the streets of Broadway, where they all get fulfilment without any disparity. Many people, especially traders from far-off places like Kottayam, Changanassery, and Alappuzha, would show up in large canoes that could carry bulky cargo. Broadway has always been an important source of income for many traders. For a while now, substantial goods sales have been on the street.
J. Newfield and Company, Koya Hassan, the Bharatha Tailoring Company, Valavi and Company (which opened in 1899 and sold imported goods from Europe), and White Hall Silk Palace were some of the first stores in this market. There are a lot of old stores which are still selling goods with good profit.
Now, the market has changed into a shopping hub where you can find dresses, ornaments, home goodies, vegetables, bags, footwear, and the list still goes on. Our parents are the prime customers of Broadway since they have seen this evolving for a very long time.
The street of spices…
Stepping onto Broadway, one can smell the streets filling with the spicy smell of spices. Broadway has become a spice mecca, with shoppers deliberately seeking out particular stores to buy from. The development of a flourishing spice industry in Kochi has been greatly aided by the migration of many North Indians to the region.
Tea masala stands out prominently among customers as a favoured spice. Notably, the spices available in the market boast superior quality compared to other establishments because these individuals are retailers themselves. The market caters to a diverse range of spice categories, each offering a multitude of varieties. For instance, when it comes to cardamom, an array of options is available, varying in terms of both price and quality.
These shops have made Broadway the destination for spice lovers, and their careful selection of premium spices guarantees a lively and colourful experience for anybody venturing through its fragrant streets.
The old meet-up point ‘Bharath Coffee House’
The 60-year-old Bharath Coffee House is now a cultural icon that captures the essence of Broadway, much more than just a coffee shop. It is still a much-loved gathering place for families, friends, and anybody else who wants to enjoy the ideal cup of coffee and take in the ageless appeal of Kochi’s historic centre.
After wandering through the streets of Broadway, being tired, a cup of filtered coffee and one plate of Dosa from Bharath Coffee House is a must for most of the people coming there.
In times past, this served as the gathering spot for friends and family, a tradition that has now evolved into Starbucks. Just kidding!
The interior is decorated with a variety of artworks that portray the old Broadway, creating a sentimental link to the past. The architectural features haven’t changed; therefore, there’s still a clear connection to the past. The inside still has the original ambience thanks to the old-fashioned tables, seats, and fans.
It is clear from studying Broadway, Ernakulam’s history, that this famous market square is more than just a hub for business; it is a living example of a city’s cultural development. Broadway has persevered through the ages, growing and changing as it has from its colonial beginnings to the present. It is an essential part of Ernakulam’s dynamic history, with its streets telling tales of trade, art, and community.
Broadway is a beloved place where the past and present come together and invite everyone to be a part of its enduring story, even as it changes over time.
